Instead of staying in a hotel, we opted for a beachfront apartment. I had never been to Calella before and chose the place by checking out various options on Finques Frigola, one of the city's top real-estate agents. Of course, I didn't think about the fact that the pics could be doctored or shot at 'MySpace' angles-the ones that make even the bad look good. Add to this the fact that the place was on a beach called Mala Espina (Bad Bone), and I have to admit, I was a bit worried when we arrived in the small town.
We were overjoyed though when we got into the place, that was quite literally plonked right in front of the beach, large windows to listen to the lapping sea and watch the boats come in and out of shore, much more exciting than the usual eye candy I am entertained by in my flat in Poble Sec, which would be the older woman who lives directly across my flat hanging up her extra-large ladies underthings while I grab my breakfast in the morning.
The place only cost about 1500 euros for two weeks, plus a 200 euro deposit, which we received immediately upon handing over the keys the day we left. And it was worth it, hell worth even more. Although, there was no internet-thank God for the town's old man bar that had an internet 'corner', literally two small computers wedged into a fly-infested corner next to the bright and loud slot machines and bar's ashtray supply- or TV available in English, total separation from work and the outer, buzzing world.
We got there at the start of July, according to the Lonely Planet an old roommate left in the apartment, the famous habañeras, festival of sea songs, a popular tradition actually adopted from Cuban culture-why and how it was adopted, I do not know, just as I couldn't properly answer some of the qs my parents threw at me during their trip ie: what is the largest fish in the Mediterranean? At what speed do the metro trains go?-eating and drinking (cremat, a flambee beverage) were not set to be happening until August....little did we now LP was a bit off the mark, and that these festivities that bring in about 35,000 people to the small costal city happen the first Saturday of July every yr, and to boot our apartment was right on the very cove where they were setting up the stage. So, we didn't hav to pay the 20 euros to get a seat in the stands. To check out the habañeras schedule for the entire coast, see the Related Links.
After we were bombarded by habañeras-goers, things returned to normal in semi-sleepy Calella de Palafrugell. We went back to eating out: Sol i Mar at 19 les voltes is the best for French fries and the catch of the day-even when you're not quite sure what the catch actually is, still tastes yummy-and the old man who runs the bar/restaurant is quite possibly the cutest and hard-working man ever, Sol Ixent on dels Canyers, 24 has a multi-paged menu with foie, a fantastic mar y muntaña and if you go there once, they'll give you a ticket for a free carafe of wine on your next dine out +1. We also returned to our spot ont he sand and lounging in the sun for 6 hours each day-hard work.
If you're thinking of hitting up the coast, and a beach apartment seems too pricey, there is also a great campground overlooking the beautiful Costa Brava coves in Cala Llevado, just a 10 min. taxi ride or 45 min. walk from Tossa de Mar. It's 15 euros a person to campout.
Happy Vacances a Tothom!



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